Returning to Style (French)

To truly live l’art de vivre elegance, even in Phnom Penh, there are several fine French venues in the south already. Topaz is a true five star family experience with a thoughtful sommelier located
on Norodom. La Coupole, named for Hemingway’s hangout spot in Paris, is situated at the Sofitel Phokeethra and serves caviar and truffles.

But what about the north of the city, where towers rise like trees and bistros sprout like portobello mushrooms? A revival is expanding north of Russian Market.

Perl D’Asie Ancienne
During the age of colonialism, the north of town had always been the center of Phnom Penh’s governance and commerce. The merchant ships of old, laden with expensive imports and spices docked nearby and deposited thier goods at warehouses near the post office. It was an era of sociability — soft power diplomacy designed to push eloquent agendas. Hospitality was at its peak with fine parties, bubbling laughter and dancing shadows at midnight soireés.

Reviving the Post
Built on the bones of an empire, Khéma La Poste, the winsome northern sister of Khéma Pasteur, is continuing the revival of the French Quarter with a view of the freshly painted post office near Wat Phnom. The entrance is grander than the prices on the menu suggest: nothing is over $15, with most dishes at $8-$10. Service is par excellence and their mocha-colored lobster bisque ($8) with crab ravioli that is reminiscent of holidays in Kep, playing in the ocean surf and sun. Much of their provender is premium local or imported from the world-famous Rungis market in Paris. The sea bass tartare is an enriching, spicy ceviche, and their warm chocolate  fondant is a dark cavern of decadence with a striking raspberry sauce. Be warned.

Besides offering imported coffee, exquisitely designed gateaux, cheese and charcuterie, they also offer whole hams and roasts for parties.

Northern Nostalgie
Upstairs through a gallery of lights is the atrium for natural lighting over the stage area, in front of the VIP rooms. One can imagine jubilant gatherings on the hardwood floors under the atrium. (Bon Noël et Très Bonne Année!) The good times are back again! Duval Le Roy Champagne, anyone?

Unsettlingly, however, is stepping out of the bright and clean Khéma La Poste, into the eerie past and spy the former
Poste de la Police, currently a dilapidated building obscured by climbing vines and bent trees. The contrast between moldering and restored buildings is startling, but rest assured, further gentrification is finally coming to the Old Quarter.

Khéma La Poste
Far North
Another sister has been residing in Siem reap for more than a year and the grandeur of the entry hall of Malis will make you feel like royalty. Lounge chairs for sipping fine wines and cocktails are scattered around the perimeter of the entrance hall and the main dining hall is lush with curtains and carpets as far as the eye can see. In the centre of the building is a courtyard, which is one of the romantic places to hideout in town.

The major five star hotels boast a luxury of dining second to none. You can be assured of a gold class experience in any of these fine venues around town. Then of course are the restaurants where their reputation precedes them; Cuisine Wat Damnak, L’Annex, Abacus, The Embassy… and a few lesser acclaimed but no less divine; Flow, Olive, Mie Cafe and Mango Cuisine.

Settings vary from casual al fresco dining among the foliage of small trees or under verandas, to the ultra glamorous hushed interiors and crisp tablecloths. A couple of these are petite in size, though often the service exceeds that of the bigger venues due to the intimacy of the venue.

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